It did fluctuate as lighting dimmed and brightened periodically until I replaced it. In my neck of the woods (NYC), I blame salted roads in premature alternator failure some years ago as it neither exhibited low voltages below 14 volts nor overcharged the battery. Chassis ground also allows all other electrical or electronic connections to operate. The engine not grounded properly can prevent every electrical component on the engine from working since they all need a ground to complete a 12v (or other voltage) circuit. As you found out from extensive troubleshooting, the two main grounds connecting to battery negative are chassis and engine. I state this only from a near total lack of threads with this problem, severe engine ground corrosion preventing normal battery electrical connections. Interesting thread as engine ground rarely corrodes to give serious power issues. It always seems so easy.once you find it.
I cleaned it up and soldered a heavy gauge wire to it and soldered the 6 wire bundle to the heavy wire and it's all good now. Being barely attached as I was tapping on things it was remaking the connection so it would sometimes start. I took the lug off, it was green and corroded. There are 6 wires in the bundle that attached to the ground lug, two grounds come from the two halves of the Transmission range switch, lucky for me the one for the transmission side decided to go bad just then, made the car think it was put in gear and it locked the doors, made it easier to find the root cause. I traced it to a ground lug on the side of the transmission, below the throttle body. I set my scanner to watch the PNP switch, low and behold as I moved the wiring around it would toggle between park/neutral and in gear. I was all set to go buy a Transmission range switch when to my shock.my elbow hit a bundle of wires and the doors locked.I wiggled the wire bundle around and the door locks would cycle. The last diagram my Son sent showed me that the Transmission range selector has 2 parts, one feeds the gear selected to the TCM and the other feeds the neutral safety signal the the ECM. I took the electrical connector apart and cleaned it out in hopes there was a bad connection but nope, same problem. I set my scanner to the Transmission control module and went through the gear, it was giving good feedback but the ECM showed "in gear". Now it showed park/neutral and it started a bunch of times. I set my scanner to watch the PNP switch status. Now we are troubleshooting the Transmission range switch. The info my Son sent mentioned to check the PNP switch to ensure it showed Park/ did when key on ACC and when on RUN it would sometimes flip to "In gear" when it wouldn't start. (Later I found that the ECM is programmed to check for a failed relay and won't turn on the fuel pump if it''s failed.) At least I had a way to get it started now. It cranked like a trooper, strong and fast but when I put the relay back in and cranked, it started. From them I rigged up a jumper wire on the starter relay so I could jump the starter solenoid to the battery to crank the engine. Installed it and it is obviously much stronger, started 20 times in driveway and off I went to the grocery store.came out, damn no crank, no start. I found a local re-builder, he charged $130 and had it ready in a couple of hours and it looked good as new. Rockauto wanted $85 Canadian for a new, not rebuilt starter but I couldn't wait a week for delivery. Put the Aura up on ramps, removed the starter again while removing the nut holding the lug feeding the starter motor the Bakelite broke, now I needed a replacement starter or at least solenoid.Īuto parts store wanted $250 Canadian. Hit the starter a few times and got it going.must be the starter.picked up my wife so I could get both cars home. Got a taxi home, borrowed a neighbor's car and went back with some tools. Had a helpful Walmart customer turn the key while I tapped on the starter. Went to Walmart, came out, no crank, no start. It started perfectly in the driveway 20 times. I cleaned up the connections and lugs then reinstalled it. It gradually got worse so I removed the starter and bench tested it. Usually after a few tries the engine would run. The engine would crank but sometimes stop cranking and felt as though the starter got stuck. It began as an intermittent start condition. Long story but just wanting to relay my experience with a recent starting problem in hopes it can help others fix it if it happens to them.
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